Castlegar

Cruising along Highway 3, coastal rainforest gave way to lush desert, still green from spring rains, which cycled back to forested mountain peaks. Every turn offered up a new panorama, and we agreed, not for the first time, that we live in a pretty spectacular corner of the world. We have driven to the Kootenays many times, but usually later in the fall. It’s a much nicer drive in the spring, though the ubiquitous fair-weather roadwork did delay us a bit. 

When we finally got there, we pulled off the highway and headed into Castlegar proper, ready for a weekend adventure. 

We were looking forward to a good dinner after our drive and headed over to Tacos El Gringo. The colourful exterior opened into a cozy and bustling restaurant. The patio was still under construction, so we grabbed seats at the long communal table that takes up the majority of the inside space. The restaurant is owned and run by husband-and-wife team Richard and Emmy, who have lived in a few cities in the Kootenays. When they came to Castlegar, Tacos El Gringo started as a food truck, and then in early 2022 they opened the current restaurant and continue to make improvements (like the patio) to accommodate their loyal and hungry customers. 

The margaritas were tempting – but we couldn’t resist our first taste of the local craft brewery, Tailout Brewing, so we each ordered Tailout’s Chromer Kolsch. The restaurant was packed, but they clearly have an experienced team because it wasn’t long before our table was piled with food. The homemade chips were perfectly crunchy, and the house salsa roja had the perfect amount of chipotle smokiness. The ceviche was different from what I’ve tasted in the past: the pop of saltiness from the feta was a welcome addition. 

Pat ordered the pork enchiladas – one of the house favourites – and I went with beef tacos with avocado salsa. I’ll be honest, I was a bit apprehensive. When it comes to spice I’m a wimp. I have the tolerance of a small child on the best of days. So Mexican food is always a bit of a risk. One wayward jalapeno could be the end of my taste buds. But Emmy is a master of her kitchen – everything was savoury, fresh, and delicious, with enough spice to lend flavour but not be overwhelming.

Far too full for our own good, we headed off to our evening destination: Castle Bowl. I hesitate to admit that both Pat and I bowled in leagues in our youths. However, it was a long time since either of us had hit the lanes, so we had no expectations of setting any personal records. Still, we were looking forward to a little friendly competition. 

Tucked inside a vintage, unassuming building, Castle Bowl has been a local staple for over five decades. I was surprised to see only six lanes, but my surprise quickly gave way to enjoyment – we discovered in no time that a smaller bowling alley makes for a much more social experience. The original lanes have been upgraded with automated scorekeeping and we were told there is even disco bowling on Friday nights. The fridges were well stocked too, so we grabbed our second taste of Tailout beer and got down to the not-so-serious business of bowling. 

Between frames, we chatted with Castlegar locals and got to know more about the feel of the community. The common thread that seems to bring everyone together is the perfect combination of charming small-town vibes and the close proximity to outdoor adventures of all types. 

We finished the evening tied at one game apiece and decided a tiebreaker is likely to be necessary in the near future in order to settle the (only somewhat serious) argument about who is the better bowler.

We headed back to our hotel, noting a few places we wanted to explore the following day along the way. We checked in to the SureStay Best Western, conveniently located on the edge of the downtown area. Our room was clean and comfortable and outfitted with a mini fridge, microwave and coffee maker for the morning. 

“Bustling” is the only way I can describe the team working behind the counters. The worktables visible from the counter were full of dough being prepared, rolled, and kneaded. Staff were checking in with ETAs on almost-ready pastries, and the smell could only be described as divine. There is just something about the smell of warm bread rising and baking that I find very comforting, and I knew I was going to have a hard time making a choice for my meal. 

We learned that Crumbs sources their coffee from a roastery local to Nelson, less than an hour away, and while I’m not a coffee aficionado by any stretch, both of our respective brews were notably good. Food-wise, we both settled on brioche stuffed with olive tapenade, spinach and brie. As we happily savoured our pastries, I overheard staff call out the ETA on stuffed pretzels – ham and cheese, or salami and cheese. We quickly decided that we would take our time finishing our breakfast so that we could pick up a couple of these to snack on later. We definitely did not regret that choice! 

After breakfast, we headed over to explore Zuckerberg Island Heritage Park. Located at the confluence of the Kootenay and Columbia Rivers, the small island was once home to Lakes Salish, or Sinixt, people who fished nearby and built their winter pit houses on the forested and protected island. In more recent times, Alexander Zuckerberg acquired the land and built the famed Russian Orthodox Chapel House where he lived with his wife and taught local Doukhobor children for around 30 years. The Island is also the site of a Hiroshima memorial, and one of Zuckerberg’s surviving sculptures, the Stump Woman. 

The Chapel House and Island fell into disrepair after Zuckerberg’s death in 1961 but were restored thanks to local efforts and in 1983 reopened as the Zuckerberg Island Heritage Park. To ensure year-round access, a suspension bridge was built as a military exercise in 1984 and remains to this day (with some improvements and regular maintenance, naturally). 

We parked the truck and headed for the suspension bridge. but were quite disappointed to find it closed. Instead, we followed the lower causeway from the parking lot to the island, just behind another couple out for a morning dog walk. 

The island is criss-crossed with wooded pathways, leading to the various historical sites and viewpoints along the river. It’s a small island, and we quickly found our way to the Chapel House and the garden housing the Stump Woman. I would really love to learn more about the Stump Woman’s story, but the information at the site simply gives her name, and my post-trip research has yielded little information. I guess I will just have to live with her story being lost to history. After admiring the unique and somewhat juxtaposed architecture of a Russian Orthodox building on a small island in the foothills of the Canadian Rockies, we continued our walk along the perimeter path and found the confluence of the two rivers. 

The water was crystal clear, and it was a perfect sunny morning to spend some time simply relaxing on one of the benches at the waterside. Eventually, we completed the loop and headed back toward our truck, noting another group of dog walkers enjoying a beach along a protected back eddy. It’s the perfect spot for a morning walk, even better with a canine companion. 

We headed back to the downtown core, to do more exploring. Castlegar is the “Sculpture Capital of Canada” – a distinction I had mistakenly thought belonged to Hope. The difference is in the details: Hope is home to chainsaw carvings, while the sculptures that are displayed around Castlegar are crafted in a variety of mediums and using a wide range of techniques. 

We had already spotted a few of this year’s pieces outside of Crumbs when we had breakfast, and I was looking forward to finding more along the Sculpturewalk. Finding the sculptures is not hard – in addition to the 31 pieces created for the 2023 exhibition, there are also previous years’ People’s Choice Award winners on display. The works are created by local and international artists, and each one is accompanied by a plaque with an artist’s statement. Many of the pieces, while whimsical at first glance, carry a deeper message. Crude Accommodations by Kate Ford is one such piece. One of our favourites, it is meant to remind us “of the fragility, as well as the awe-inspiring resilience of nature.” In a place like Castlegar, which has much of its identity rooted in outdoor adventure, it’s a sobering thought. Even Lookout by Ken Meyer, a simple sculpture of a Vancouver Island Marmot, is intended to bring attention to the adorable rodent’s endangered status. 

As we wandered along the Sculpturewalk, we found a lovely small park where people seated at tables were enjoying plates heaped with Greek food from the restaurant next door. It was getting to be lunchtime, so we decided to check it out. 

The Grateful Table is a bright and welcoming space that immediately had our mouths watering with smells of garlic and spices, and roasting gyro meat. We each ordered a gyro and decided to share some calamari and a Greek salad. After a morning of walking, we were hungry. We were also delighted to note a selection of craft beer in the drink fridge and picked out two beers from Nelson Brewing. Not many liquor stores in the Fraser Valley carry beers from the Kootenays, and we couldn’t pass up getting to sample something new – and delicious. 

While we waited for our food, I contemplated the definition of “gratitude” emblazoned on the wall of the restaurant. It seems like a strange name for a Greek restaurant until you learn about its history. The Grateful Table is a family-owned business, the culmination of over 23 years of Greek food in Castlegar. The current owner and head chef, George Salivaras, along with his wife, took it over from his parents. They value simple and locally sourced ingredients, and practice gratitude – evident in the warm way they welcome customers and the care taken with the food. 

Speaking of the food, I know I said that we were hungry, but we definitely overestimated our appetites – or underestimated the meals, perhaps. The salad dressing and tzatziki dips are made in-house and were some of the best I’ve tasted. We were told that pretty much everything on the menu is, in fact, made in-house, with the exception of the pitas, which are baked locally. The calamari was perfect – crunchy batter and perfectly tender meat. When it comes to Greek food, there are two things that I will judge a restaurant based on: their calamari and the tzatziki. In this case, the Grateful Table knocked both out of the park. We left feeling stuffed but satisfied and with delightfully garlicky breath. 

After lunch, we continued wandering the downtown area, finding more sculptures, as well as colourful murals seemingly around every turn. Combined with the profusion of blooming hanging baskets, it made for a truly engaging, delightfully artistic, and charming vibe.

Our next adventure was one of the main things that brought us to Castlegar: an evening of dry fly fishing on the Columbia River. The Columbia is renowned for its epic caddis fly hatches. We are told that when they really get going, it can be like driving through a hailstorm. For those living near the river, outside lights can’t be left on or the house will be mobbed by the small insects. But trout absolutely love them. 

From June to July, the resident rainbow population feeds heavily on this readily available delicacy, having just finished their spring spawning cycle. Targeting them on the dry fly is a fun and exciting way to spend an evening, and we couldn’t wait. 

We met up with our guide, Dwayne D’Andrea of Mountain Valley Sports Fishing. Dwayne has been guiding on the Columbia since 1991 – safe to say he knows the river well. As we got underway, we first floated over an area closed to fishing to protect the spawning trout. Through the clear waters, we could easily see trout cruising along, as well as white fish and a preview of the next day’s activity: white sturgeon.

As we floated, Dwayne explained that we had arrived a bit early in the year. Unfortunately, the caddis hatches hadn’t started in earnest, so we would be starting our evening nymphing. If we came across a hatch and rising trout, we could easily switch over to dry flies.

At our first stop, I quickly hooked into a small trout. This was starting out great! We snapped a quick photo and sent him back to the river safe and sound – wanting to get our flies back in the water as soon as possible. 

And then… quiet. As we continued our drift, our flies were soundly ignored. We swapped flies and adjusted leader depths, all to no avail. As we cruised through the incredibly scenic river valley, Dwayne brought us through runs that would normally be teeming with rising fish – but the biological clock of Mother Nature simply can’t be rushed. Dwayne felt that most of the fish were either still spawning, or just recovering, and when combined with the lack of hatches this early in the season it made for tougher fishing. 

And then it happened. A hatch. Dwayne said it was just a small one, but I was blown away by the mass of insects suddenly rising from the river. Along with the appearance of dinner came rising trout. We switched my line over to a dry fly and I started casting to the lines where fish were rising.

Even though I wasn’t able to entice a trout as quickly as I would have liked, I was thoroughly enjoying this new-to-me method of fishing. Being able to watch your fly on the surface as it bubbles through a run where you know fish are feeding creates an enormous sense of anticipation. And with each refusal, a clear determination to get your fly back to the top of the run as quickly as possible to try again.

And finally, as we cruised through the final run of the evening right in front of the boat launch, a take. A split second before the trout broke the surface I could see the swirl below the water, and then my fly disappeared, and I set the hook. Fish on! Pound for pound, these fish are scrappers. The trout gave me a great fight, and the whole time I was elated. From the take to the moment Dwayne netted my catch, it was one of the most fun experiences I have had fishing.

Though Pat didn’t get the chance to land a fish, he quickly agreed when I declared that we absolutely have to come back again next year when the hatch is on. We have both fished for a long time, chasing many species with many methods, but this is truly something special. I can really understand why the Columbia fishery is so well known and draws anglers from all over every year. Regardless of the low number of fish caught, it was a thoroughly enjoyable evening drift.

Dwayne loaded up the boat, and we headed back to our original launch point, conveniently located across the street from the Lion’s Head Pub – perfect since we had worked up an appetite fishing.

The front patio was busy, not surprising since it was a perfect, warm, sunny evening and the view of the river is lovely. As we entered, we were greeted by a large tap list on the wall and I was delighted to see that it was exclusively craft beer.

The pub is that perfect combination of unique and quirky, yet familiar – the walls are covered in various styles of paintings and posters, and the exposed wood beams host a large collection of decorative steins. We spotted the famous portrait of Kramer, which was only topped by a rendering of The Dude – two of our favourite pop-culture characters.

We opted for a table on the front patio, and then had the arduous task of making choices: first, which beers to sample, and second, what food to order. We finally decided to start light with our beer selections and went with the Mt. Begbie Brewing Kolsch and Lake Boat Lager from Cannery Brewing. I was having a very hard time choosing my dinner, so we eventually agreed to order two of the sandwiches and share them. My choice was the smoked chicken clubhouse, while Pat went with the brisket dip.

The clubhouse was one of the best I’ve ever had – I’m a sucker for smoked chicken of any kind, and this was delicious. About two bites into the meal, Pat tried to convince me that we should keep to what we each chose and not split our meals, so I knew that the brisket dip must be something special. And, oh man, was it ever. According to Pat, it’s the best pub meal he has ever had: “And you can quote me on that!”

We relaxed with a second pint (the Nasty Habit IPA again from Mt. Begbie for me, and Shiner Hazy IPA from Slackwater Brewing for Pat) as the patio lights came on and the sun went down – enjoying the view and the company after a wonderful evening on the water. What could be better?

It was immediately clear that this is (another) local favourite. Tables of regulars who greeted each other — and their dogs — by name, were happily engaged in conversation. My coffee was appropriately large for the early morning wake-up, and our breakfasts were delicious. Everything tasted fresh and flavourful and was made to order. It had obviously been a busy morning — while I was at the counter requesting a to-go cup for my remaining coffee, the two-woman team behind the counter discussed the remaining breakfast ingredients and how many more of each item could be made. For once, I was glad we got somewhere early!

A group of local ATV enthusiasts and trail builders offered to take us for a ride up the Columbia & Western Rail Trail. We met them at the start of the Arrow Lakes, past the dam that created them. The group was already at the trailhead, unloading their quads and getting ready for a morning of exploring. Our host Rob was leading the group and explained the route we would be following. The maps he showed us were a tangle of trails zig-zagging the backcountry around Castlegar.

The C&W Rail Trail is an easy, multi-use track that follows the bed of the abandoned railway, as indicated by its name. We set off along the trail, following the edge of the lake, where the original rail bed is currently underwater, having been flooded by the Arrow Lakes after the construction of the dam. We quickly came to one of the main draws of the route: one of the tunnels that was carved out of a mound of rock that juts out into the lake. The water was high enough that the tunnel was half full of water.

We continued along, with the trail gradually climbing and diverting slightly away from the lake. The openings between the trees offered spectacular vistas of the surrounding mountains and lake below.

Our next stop was at one of the refuge shelters built by Rob and a small unofficial group of ATV-ers and trail builders, including Sam and Brian, who were riding with us, and Jeremy, who was unable to join us. Rob and Sam are a wealth of knowledge about the history of the trail, and all of them have a passion for the backcountry that they regularly enjoy. In fact, they have spent countless hours removing debris after winter storms to restore access, working with other trail groups on maintenance and new construction, and building the shelters, even going so far as to transport in their own excavator to do the heavy lifting. They are dedicated to keeping access open for all users, from cyclists to horseback riders to off-road vehicles, and their enthusiasm for their beloved trails was contagious.

A short way further, we hopped off of the quads and took a short hike up a small trail branching off the main road. At the top of a small hill was an old stone oven, used by rail workers who were camped in the area while building the railway. There are many relics like this along the trail; one small shelter that was built into the side of a hill a bit further on still had the remnants of an old stove in the corner. The history of this stretch of the Kettle Valley Railway could fill a book, and I’m sure it probably has over the years. 

We continued on, crossing over wooden trestle bridges and stopping periodically to stretch our legs or explore another notable point. Rob’s dedication to the trail network never faltered – at each of the crossroads and shelters, he checked the map holders and restocked them as needed. 

Finally, we came to the main draw for this section of the trail: Bulldog Tunnel. At almost a kilometre long, the small bend at the far end of the tunnel meant that the centre was in complete darkness. Unless, of course, you have headlights as we did. Approaching the tunnel was like being buffeted by an air conditioner on high, and the walls dripped with water run-off and the last of the spring melt. On the other side, Brian told us that he has often encountered deer inside the tunnel in the heat of summer, where they hide to try and escape the sun and unrelenting deer flies that plague them. 

We reached the Fallon summit, which seemed like a strange designation given the subtle and steady climb of the 2% grade. It was much more noticeable going down, as I realized later on.

Shortly past the Fallon summit, we came to the infamous explosion site. In the early 1900s, the Kootenays were home to thousands of Doukhobor immigrants. If you want to learn more about the history and culture of this interesting group of settlers, the Doukhobor Discovery Centre in Castlegar is worth a stop. The leader of one of their sects, Peter Verigin, was assassinated in an unsolved train explosion in 1924. The previous evening, Dwayne had told us one theory to the execution: some believe that it was perpetrated by a rival sect of Doukhobors, the Sons of Freedom. The Sons of Freedom often wandered the town naked, with no earthly possessions, and were believed to be terrorists who perpetrated multiple bombings and arsons in the name of their faith. Another theory was relayed by Kathy, one of the riders with us. She noted that rumours had it that a woman travelling with Verigin at the time of his death was his mistress, while his wife was safe at home. His adultery may have been more than frowned upon by his fellow religious leaders.

Whatever the reason behind it, it’s hard to believe now that this idyllic site next to a small babbling brook was once the site of horrific violence. The location is marked with a simple sculpture of a wheat sheaf.

After 47.5km on the trail, it was time to turn around and head back down. The way back was a much quicker journey without making the stops that we did on the way up, but just as scenic as the first time around. We passed a group of cyclists taking a break at one of the shelters, and another group on ATVs at a picnic table further down. Between the history, the trestles and tunnels, and the panoramic views, I can see why it’s such a popular trail for all user groups.

Back at the staging area, we said our goodbyes as the group started to load up their quads. Rob was already talking with Brian and the others, making plans to head to another trail the following weekend: there was a pile of deadfall blocking the path after a spring storm and it needed to be cleared.

We headed back to town, eager for a late lunch. We stopped at the Grand Buddha Bistro, conveniently attached to our hotel. Given the late hour, we weren’t surprised to find the sleek and modern interior nearly empty, and quickly grabbed a table. We had a choice between Vietnamese, Thai, and Korean options, and eventually settled on pho – regular beef for me, and brisket for Pat.

Our bowls arrived quickly and were roughly the size of an entire pot of soup. Maybe that’s a slight exaggeration, but there was no way we were leaving hungry!

I was tempted to try one of the boba tea combinations from the colourful boba bar, but in the end, I was just too full from the savoury and filling soup.

After lunch, we headed back to our room for a quick change of clothes and a generous reapplication of sunscreen, then jumped in the truck to head back to the boat launch for our second Columbia River adventure: a SUP Sturgeon Search Tour with Endless Adventure.

I had been wanting to give stand-up paddle boarding a try, so I was excited for this outing. At home, Pat and I have regularly fished the Fraser River for white sturgeon. In fact, he has been a guide on the river for around 15 years so we aren’t strangers to this unique fish, but watching them float along through clear water from above would be a brand-new way to observe them. 

We met up with our guide and instructor, Andrea, as well as another paddler, Betsy, and got to it. First, we went over the safety guidelines and paddle board basics. Then it was time to hit the river. I immediately started questioning myself. Despite their touted stability, these boards did not feel so stable to me. We all hopped on, starting out kneeling. The kneeling wasn’t so bad. As we got a little way from the launch, I started feeling more confident, so when it was time to try standing, it didn’t seem like too much of a stretch. Unfortunately, Betsy lost her balance shortly after that and was the first of us to go for a swim. About 10 minutes later, I overreached with my paddle and took my own dip in the (shockingly cold) Columbia River. Pat, surprisingly to both of us, kept his balance and stayed dry throughout our paddle.

Once we had the basics down, we headed downstream to start looking for sturgeon. We floated over the same area we had drifted through the previous evening, looking for the long, dark shapes of sturgeon. There were other groups of paddlers doing the same thing, who shared that they had found quite a few over the past hour or two. The shallow gravel bed in that part of the river, combined with clear and slow-moving water makes for a wonderful viewing space. Sturgeon are generally in the area in May and June, following spawning rainbow trout and cleaning up any stray eggs or redds (the nests of fertilized eggs left behind by spawning trout) that they can find. Once the trout disperse, so do the sturgeon, looking for other food sources. 

We slowly drifted downriver to the edge of the gravel bar, then paddled back to the top, following this same slow circuit repeatedly in the late afternoon sun. Pat, displaying his fish-finding expertise, spotted the first sturgeon. By the time we paddled over, it had moved on. I saw more trout, but each time he or Andrea spotted a sturgeon it had moved on by the time Betsy and I arrived. 

Finally, we came across a large fish that was content to drift along with us before scurrying off, and then another, and another. I had my GoPro with me, and was keeping my fingers crossed each time I thrust it underwater that I would catch one of these sleek-looking fish cruising the riverbed. 

Eventually, it was time to head back to the launch. Though Pat had been skeptical at first, as he is with any watersport that doesn’t involve a fishing rod, we agreed that it was a really enjoyable afternoon. The calm of gently floating down the river, the stellar weather, and the unique way of encountering one of BC’s iconic fish species was a great way to cap off our outdoor adventures in Castlegar — unexpected swim and all. 

After changing into dry clothes back at our hotel, we headed downstairs and around the side of the building to our final stop for the weekend: Tailout Brewing. Finally! We had enjoyed the beers we were able to sample elsewhere, but we were both eager to sample the rest of the lineup and get a feel for the brewery itself. 

True to their fish-themed brand, the tasting room is decorated with river and fish-themed items and artwork, and furnished with unique live-edge tables and bar. The brewery itself is visible through a wall of windows, though it was quiet this evening. Overall, the space is inviting, and right up our alley with the outdoors vibe. Pat was quick to admire the wall of custom ceramic beer mugs, which we learned are for mug club members only, much to his disappointment. 

We both ordered flights while we waited for the rest of our group: Andrea was to join us, along with Hedin and Mary, owners and founders of Tailout. We had already met Hedin and Mary at Castlebowl on our first evening, and I was looking forward to chatting more about the brewery.

Our flights were tasty – there wasn’t a beer we didn’t like. The top pick for both of us was Stoked Spokes Hazy Session IPA, a collaboration with Red Mountain Resort. I’m not normally a fan of hazy beers, but this one retained enough crispness to balance the haze, and delivered a profusion of juicy hoppy aromas and a smooth mouthfeel. 

As we finished off our flights, we were joined by the rest of the group and got down to the serious business of dinner. We started with a Montreal smoked meat poutine from the food tent that is on-site Thursdays and Fridays. I’m glad we opted to share it because we had also ordered a grazing platter from The Roasted Chickpea. Once again, I made the mistake of vastly underestimating the order. The platters that were delivered not only looked like something straight out of a gourmet magazine but they were also loaded with a variety of delicious meats, cheeses, pickles, fruits, nuts and spreads. 

Talk turned almost immediately to fishing – we had touched on it with Hedin the other night, but really got into it over pints of crisp beer and a profusion of charcuterie. The fish theme is a perfect fit for a brewery owned by an avid angler and set on the banks of a world-class river. We asked the couple why they chose Castlegar to start their brewery when neither of them is from the area originally. They explained that they were looking for something specific: a small town with approximately ten thousand people, and one that didn’t have a brewery yet. There are a few places in BC that met that requirement, but they also had the unique criteria of being somewhere that had access to a variety of outdoor recreation opportunities. They found exactly what they were looking for in Castlegar. 

We spent an enjoyable evening in good company with great beer – what more could we ask for to wrap up an amazing trip?

The next morning, we loaded up the truck for the drive home, already discussing a return trip next year. We weren’t too sure what to expect from our trip – we knew we would enjoy the outdoor adventures but knew very little about Castlegar itself. It turns out that the exact things that drew Hedin and Mary to start a brewery there are the exact things that will be bringing us back for a longer trip next year: a charming and friendly small town with restaurants that share a buy-local and home-made emphasis; a well-established and accomplished arts and culture community; and best of all, close proximity to any kind of outdoor adventure you might want to experience.